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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 21, 2015 22:17:49 GMT
Not sure how well the blade will stand up to abuse. It says it's 1060 carbon steel, so if it's tempered correctly it should spring back from serious bending. I flexed it against my knee a bit and it seems good, but you can't say for sure until you start pounding it on stuff.
But I'm recovering from a head cold today and I don't feel like going out back and beating the bushes.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 25, 2015 4:20:40 GMT
Went to the gun show today and walked out with this brand new Taurus Model 94 for only 300 bucks! When I saw the price on it I thought it was used so I started going over it really carefully looking for flaws or signs of someone fucking with it, but the lady said "No, that's brand new. We're just clearing out our inventory and we've had that one for a while." I said "Sold!" After that disappointment with the Iver Johnson I wanted a good .22 revolver. This snubby will make a good trigger trainer without busting the bank. Attachments:
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Post by Horsie on Jan 25, 2015 4:27:58 GMT
That's a nice-looking revolver, what do they normally go for around there?
What are you planning to do with the Iver Johnson?
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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 25, 2015 4:42:20 GMT
MSRP for a model 94 is 438, but they typically go for around 390, maybe 360 on the low end. So 300 is a really good deal for one.
There are two key parts to the IJ that I think if I beat them a little bit with a hammer it will improve things. The problem is if I break either part getting a replacement will be a pain.
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Post by Horsie on Jan 26, 2015 1:28:01 GMT
What do you think you have to do to the Iver Johnson?
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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 26, 2015 1:57:54 GMT
The cylinder lock and the pawl are both slightly off and allow movement in the cylinder once the trigger is pulled. Ideally they should lock the cylinder in line with the barrel. Due to overuse and perhaps just being a cheap firearm to begin with both of these have loosened over time. I'm pretty sure bending each of them slightly will bring the cylinder back into alignment.
I'll have to take the gun apart to do that, so I figure if I'm gonna do that I may as well have fun with it. I'm gonna buff down the metal and paint the gun (still kicking around colors, but I'm thinking some type of camo for the frame and black for the cylinder, trigger guard and hammer). I'm also thinking about cutting down the overly large grip that it has. Either that or using the old grip as a template to make a new one.
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Post by Horsie on Jan 26, 2015 2:04:32 GMT
I'd probably make a new one; if it's not going to be for carry or to practice for carry, there's no sense in making the grip smaller.
I looked at a Welbey Mk.VI a while ago that worked great, except that one of the locking notches was worn out so bad that the cylinder could rotate to the firing pin would probably have struck the edge of the cartridge's rim. It was only on the one chamber, and I was half tempted to buy it and repair the notch with body fill.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 26, 2015 2:14:57 GMT
I think JB Weld would work well for that. I don't know how long it would last though.
I'm considering JB for the lock. It would be safer to build it up than to bend the part. Even if bending it worked there's a chance that it will weaken the part and cause issues down the road.
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Post by Horsie on Jan 26, 2015 2:25:01 GMT
Yeah, something like that might have worked. I didn't buy it, obviously, I figured I could find something that didn't need the work.
Probably best to try building the part up too, you can always sand it down if you build it up too much.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 26, 2015 2:39:18 GMT
Y'know, I just pulled out the Iver J and used a flashlight to check the chamber alignments (looking down the barrel of a gun as you pull the trigger is not something most folks would recommend) and I noticed that the alignment in the direction of the cylinder lock is fine. This is a good thing since it means the entire problem is with the pawl. The pawl is a much simpler piece than the lock, which is part of the trigger. I could probably fabricate a new one out of a piece of sheet metal if I had to.
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Post by Horsie on Jan 26, 2015 2:41:24 GMT
That's good.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 26, 2015 3:01:52 GMT
Now that I think the whole problem is just that one part I think this shouldn't be that tough of a fix.
I mean, the barrel may yet be shot out, so it may not ever be a great shooter, but I think I can make it a fun dickin' around pistol.
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Post by Horsie on Jan 26, 2015 3:08:00 GMT
It's not like you need it for a practice gun now, you've got the Taurus that.
Speaking of which, I love the grips on Taurus revolvers, they're pretty comfortable.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 26, 2015 3:15:25 GMT
You can't own too many .22s anyway.
Yeah, the grip on the m 94 is pretty comfy. A bit beefy for a snub but I wasn't considering it for a carry gun anyway, just a trainer.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Jan 28, 2015 8:02:32 GMT
Took the 94 to the range yesterday. Fun to shoot, but a little difficult to hit with beyond 10 yards. 7 yards is no problem, 15 is tough, even with single action. That's good cuz it's supposed to train me to control short barrels. If you can hit with a 2 inch barrel everything longer is child's play.
Had a little hiccup with the extractor with one of the types of ammunition I was using. I guess the brass was low quality and expanded enough to seal themselves into the chambers. After prying a couple of them loose the extractor knocked the rest out. A 9 round cylinder is probably pushing the boundaries of what an extractor is expected to do anyway.
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