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Post by Horsie on Nov 7, 2018 10:19:17 GMT
Gonna have that carbine upper done by Christmas, also reworking that fuck-off heavy target upper while I'm at it.
I've picked up a railed gas block that I'm going to mount just behind the muzzle on the rifle upper purely as a sight base, it'll give me about 1' of extra sight radius. Since I won't need the railed handguard for mounting a front sight, I ordered one of those bare bones Hogue free float tubes. I've discovered that I just can't get the rifle o group well with the scope I've had mounted on it, it shoots a lot better with irons, so at least until I find a better scope I'm just going to use the rifle with irons.
I'm going to use the railed handguard on the carbine though. I picked up a lightweight 16" barrel drilled for a mid-length gas system, which is ideal since I can use a rifle buffer with it, I won't need a dedicated lower for my rifle and another one for my carbine.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Nov 7, 2018 23:40:02 GMT
I didn't know you were having trouble with the heavy barreled rifle. Is it just the scope or is there something else going on with it?
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Post by Horsie on Nov 8, 2018 8:58:55 GMT
It seems it's just the scope, thankfully. Shooting at 100m I get an okay group, nothing to write home about, but not awful, though at 200m and beyond it opens up.
I borrowed a friend's optic and had no issues with that. It's not like the scope I've got doesn't hold a zero, it's like it has a slightly wandering zero, it's always shooting in around the same neighbourhood.
I can't see it being an issue with the rifle itself, the barrel is good, and the gas block isn't touching the handguard. Even with a low power optic you ought to see better groups than with iron sights, but my groups close right up when I use irons compared to using the scope I had mounted on it.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Nov 9, 2018 0:47:27 GMT
I've had some bad luck with bull barrels over the years.
Like I have a Marlin .17 HMR with a big fat barrel that I simply can't get to shoot as well as I expect it should. I've tried several different scopes and all the different ammo types I could find and just can't get it to close up. I should probably have a gunsmith go over it and see if there is an issue somewhere.
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Post by Horsie on Nov 9, 2018 9:14:23 GMT
This is the first rifle I've owned with such a heavy barrel, at least the first new rifle (I can't expect a 90 year old .22cal target rifle to shoot like it's new). One of my friends had some serious accuracy issues with one of his ARs, it turned out that he somehow had the indexing pin misaligned and the barrel wasn't fully seated in the receiver, but it was close enough that the rifle functioned. That's certainly not the case with mine, but I'll probably give a once over before long anyway, the Hogue tube I've got coming uses a proprietary barrel nut so I'll be pulling most of the upper apart anyway.
Now that I think about it, I can even eliminate the scope mount as an issue too. It's solid, and when I borrowed a scope from a friend a little while ago he had it in the same QD mount, the rifle performed exactly the way I expected it should when I used his.
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Post by Horsie on Nov 11, 2018 0:14:53 GMT
Definitely not the rifle; I took it out today and wedged it into some sandbags, with six 5rnd groups I averaged a little over 1", 2 groups were about 1/2", I think it'd help if I had a finer front sight.
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Post by Horsie on Nov 11, 2018 19:31:12 GMT
I started taking my newest m/96B apart to refinish the wood a found a hairline crack in the toe of the stock, and another in the handguard. Decided to put it back together until I figure out the best way to deal with the stock.
The crack goes from one side to the other in line with the bottom butt plate screw, not sure how far forward it runs, a couple inches I think. This is why the Germans moved to a cupped butt plate in 1939.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Nov 11, 2018 22:35:05 GMT
A little bit of glue goes a long way.
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Post by Horsie on Nov 11, 2018 23:14:47 GMT
That's what I figure, but the problem is going to be getting the glue into the crack. I can probably open up the one on the handguard a little with a toothpick and push glue into the crack before clamping it down, the material is thinner, and I may not even have to open it up to get the glue to penetrate properly.
The problem with the butt is that it's such a thin crack, and the material is so thick, unless I can open the crack even a little I won't get the glue to go much deeper than the surface, but the crack doesn't want to open easily, I'd be worried about causing worse damage. The other concern I have is how oil in the stock would affect the glue, these old rifles tend to have a lot of oil sunk into the wood (this one even has cosmoline in the barrel channel and around action).
I'm going to ask a carpenter I know, see what he suggests.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Nov 12, 2018 1:27:02 GMT
Oil can be an issue. At this point you may as well resign yourself to the fact that you're gonna have to completely refinish the stock anyway so some aggressive oil removal is going to come into play. As for getting glue into cracks a lot of really thin glue will actually wick right into a thin crack. Superglue (non gel type) comes to mind, and Superglue is somewhat resistant to oil, though the oil might dramatically slow curing time.
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Post by Horsie on Nov 12, 2018 2:39:28 GMT
The old finish was getting kind of blotchy, so I was going to redo the thing with linseed oil anyway.
I'll see what I can find for really thin wood glue, I know I've got a bottle of carpenters glue around, though I can't remember how viscus that is. Curing time isn't an issue either since I can only work on this shit on weekends, I'll probably try to get the old finish stripped off and as much oil out of the wood as I can, put glue into the crack, wrap it in surgical tubing, and leave it until I can work on it the following Friday.
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Post by Horsie on Nov 18, 2018 2:01:51 GMT
I picked up some stuff that should work, I'm going to have to clean 100 years of shit and corruption off the stock first. I started with that stripper/degreaser I've been using that's worked pretty well so far, there was only enough left in the can to do the butt, but it's going to be quick work I think. The butt was nearly black and the finish opaque in spots, but it cleaned up with very little effort. Other than the crack and some dents, the stock looks pretty good, the wood should look nice with a few coats of oil on it.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Nov 18, 2018 18:31:26 GMT
I took my Dan Wesson out hunting cuz I'm determined to harvest a deer with the pistol this year. Unfortunately it snowed... and rained... and snowed some more. So despite my best efforts the pistol got really wet. After a few days the action had gotten noticeably shitty. Normally I'd just clean it, but when you're in the woods and dealing with mud and snow with no proper place to pull tiny components apart without severe risk of loss you just let it go. I did cut my trip short so I could get back home and clean it up.
Took me hours to pull everything apart and get it polished up and rolling right. I had never completely broken her down before. The most I had done was remove the side plate and give it a once over to make sure nothing bad was happening in there. This time I had to completely tear out her guts to get to all the issues. I left her with a heavier film of oil than was probably necessary, but she's gonna be out in the weather again so I wanted to be sure it was protected. Hopefully it doesn't get super cold and the oil freezes up.
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Post by Horsie on Nov 18, 2018 18:49:02 GMT
I've never taken a double action apart, the lockwork is a little intimidating on most of them.
I've always found Fluid Film works well, it's used for undercoating, and while I don't know the freezing point I know it's significantly lower than the freezing point of water. Years ago someone gave me a 55 gallon drum with about 20 gallons of Fluid Film still in it, I kept it in an unheated garage for years and could scoop some out when I needed it even when it was well below freezing.
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Post by wordweaver3 on Nov 18, 2018 20:09:53 GMT
A super scary one is the Rhino.
I have no idea what's going on here.
The Dan is fairly straightforward and everything looks like what it's supposed to do.
I'm thinking about replacing the hammer spring with one that is much lighter. The spring on this gun is super heavy, easily twice as heavy as the spring on my M92 and probably three times heavier than what was on my Taurus 82. I don't think that much weight is necessary to ensure ignition.
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